Growing up in Port Macquarie, I was no stranger to the small coastal surf towns of NSW, especially the mid-north Coast. In my 20s, my husband and I would regularly jump in the car and drive a few hours just for a surf. So, returning to these places recently, over two decades later, felt both familiar and fresh. Back then, my 20-something brain was probably too distracted by all the usual 20-something worries to really slow down, take it all in, and appreciate the beauty of these towns where time seemed to stand still and progress hadn’t caught up.
This time, everything felt different. Driving into each town, I was struck by how little had changed. Coming from the Sunshine Coast, where progress seems to have swept every corner, it was refreshing to see the same beach shacks, still un-renovated and a little rough around the edges, and locals cruising by on their rusty bikes, heading down to check the surf. No trendy cafes, no sprawling shopping centres. It felt like stepping back in time, but in the best way, to a place where life was simpler, quieter, slower.
There’s a certain magic in that kind of simplicity. Even in the short time I was there, I felt more grounded, like I’d reconnected with a part of myself I didn’t even realise I’d lost. I’m already planning my next road trip along this stretch of NSW coast, eager to revisit all of the towns that seem to have paused in time. I can’t wait to pack an esky, spend the day lazing on the beaches, or sit on the break wall at sunset, eating hot chips straight out of the paper. We don’t often get the chance to relive those simple childhood pleasures, but think I might have found a hack – maybe I’ll see you there?
Wooli
Wooli sits on a narrow peninsula, with the river on one side and the ocean on the other. It’s more fishing hamlet than surf town, but don’t be deceived – there’s still great surf to be found. Development has started to creep in with a few beach shacks being renovated (and real estate prices to match!) however the natural beauty remains the star. The beach stretches for miles, and the peaceful, laid-back vibe makes it the perfect destination for those looking to escape busier spots along the coast.
One of the things that took it to the top of my next holiday list is the beach shacks that are built right into the dunes, many of which are available to rent on Airbnb. If you’ve ever dreamed of living in a house on the beach, this is your chance. These homes have backyards that melt right into the sand, often set up with hammocks and outdoor furniture so you can sit back, barefoot, and enjoy the ocean just a few steps away.
The beach shacks in Wooli literally sit on the dunes
Scotts Head
Scotts Head might not be the first surf town that comes to mind on the NSW coast, but that’s part of its appeal. Tucked away between the larger, more well-known spots, it has managed to stay quietly off the radar. The long, unspoiled main beach curves into its headland, offering pristine conditions for surfers and swimmers. There’s a calmness to the place, with only a handful of small businesses and no signs of development rushing in to change that.
Life here is all about the basics – surf, eat, repeat. In search of fresh seafood while we were there, we asked a local where to buy some and were given an address. Just someone’s house, and sure enough, out the back was a small seafood shop. We grabbed prawns and oysters and headed down to the beach to eat them, the sun setting over the water as we sat in the sand. There’s definitely something about this place that makes you feel like the essentials are all you need.
Beachside dining room, Scotts Head
Sawtell
Fifteen minutes south of Coffs Harbour, Sawtell has seen some development over the years, with more cafes and shops popping up along its fig-lined main street, but the beaches here remain as untouched and spectacular as ever. Set between rocky headlands and national parks, the coastline offers surf spots, patrolled swimming, coastal walks and calm estuary waters, as perfect for a paddle as to plonk down beside and enjoy some fish and chips.
Whether you’re grabbing a smoothie from the local health food store (which also stocks organic groceries and pre-made meals) or taking a stroll along the headland path at sunrise, Sawtell quickly gets under your skin. It’s the kind of spot where you can easily spend your days soaking up the coastal lifestyle, with all the conveniences you need (hello, Aldi) still within easy reach.
Rock pools reveal themselves at low tide in Sawtell, ripe for exploring
Front Beach, South West Rocks
Anywhere you can camp right on the beachfront always draws me in. Having the sand and ocean just steps away from your tent or motorhome is pure bliss. The sound of the waves crashing at night, the salty air, and waking up to the beach right there – it’s the kind of experience that makes you completely relax and forget about everything else.
South West Rocks is ideal for families too, thanks to its calm waters. The beach here feels sheltered, with gentle waves perfect for little ones to splash around in. Spend all day in and out of the water, only leaving to grab some food or take a quick walk to the nearby headland to watch dolphins and whales passing by. There’s a simplicity here, where the biggest decision of the day is whether to head back into the water or relax in the shade.
Beachfront camping at Front Beach, South West Rocks
Crescent Head
Crescent Head holds a special place in my heart as it’s where I spent a lot of my time in my 20s. Days here were spent at the beach, followed by a game of pool and a laid-back lunch at the local tavern. The beauty of Crescent Head is that not much has changed. Sure, there are a few more cafes, and some of the houses have grown bigger, but the overall feel of the place remains the same.
For surfers, Crescent Head is a dream, with long, peeling waves that make it a favourite spot year-round. But even if you’re not here for the surf, there’s plenty to appreciate. Golf lovers, in particular, are in for a treat—Crescent Head’s golf course stretches across the headland, offering unrivalled views. Take your time, and soak in the views between swings.
