The last sip of my lychee martini lingers as my body relaxes into the outdoor lounge on the top deck. My skin is still damp from my last swim, and the warmth of the sun filters through the roof in golden flecks, warming me just enough to keep the coolness of the water clinging a little longer.
Fleetwood Mac hums from the speakers, the boat moving in a slow, almost imperceptible rhythm. My book is open, but I’m not reading anymore. My eyes drift shut, and I let myself float into that warm, delicious haze that only comes when you have absolutely nowhere to be.
This is the pace of a Murray River houseboat holiday.
Sure, I’ve been on plenty of holidays where I was meant to slow down. But there were always places to be and things to do, even if they were supposed to be relaxing. Here, you unpack once, untie the ropes, and sail away from reality—slowly.
Murray River Houseboat Life
It’s the second day of our Murray River houseboat holiday and the journey to get here has already faded into obsolescence. Stretching more than 2,500 kilometres from New South Wales to near Adelaide in South Australia, the Murray is one of Australia’s most iconic waterways and one of the best ways to take it in is from the deck of a houseboat.
Our floating home for 10 days is the Iconic, a five-star luxury houseboat from All Seasons Houseboats in Mildura. It sleeps 12, which means our group of family and friends has more than enough space to come together but also retreat when needed.
It has everything—a gas stovetop and oven so we can even cook our Sunday roast, a dishwasher so nobody’s stuck at the sink, and even a cocktail bar and wine fridge, because what’s a sunset on the river without a perfectly chilled drink?
The bedrooms are just as well thought out, with king-sized beds, ensuite bathrooms, and huge windows that make you feel like you’re floating even when you’re tucked under the covers. The lounge is spacious, the dining area invites long, lingering meals, and the outdoor decks—both upstairs and down—become the heart of the boat. Whether stretched out in the sun, soaking in the hot tub, or curled up with a book as the river drifts past, it’s the kind of space that makes slowing down feel effortless.
Unlike a cruise (which, to be honest, has never appealed to me), this isn’t a holiday where you’re shuttled from one port to the next on a strict schedule. There’s no buffet line, no organised entertainment, no set itinerary. Instead, it’s the freedom to drift with no set plan, to pull up wherever the river looks inviting, to take a morning swim before breakfast or linger over a long lunch without watching the time. It’s knowing that if you find the perfect spot, you can stay as long as you like.
The Rhythm of the River
Mornings start slow on a Murray River houseboat holiday. For me, it’s a cup of tea in bed, watching the soft glow of sunrise spill across the water. I can hear some of the others upstairs, chatting quietly over their coffee, while outside, from the back deck, there’s the sudden splash of someone diving in for a morning swim. No rush, no plans—just everyone settling into the day in their own way.
By midday, the sun is high, and the river calls. After cruising downstream for a few hours, we pull into a secluded spot and cut the engine. The moment the boat is still, everyone is in—no second-guessing, no hesitation, just the pure rush of sinking into cool, fresh water. We spend the afternoon swimming, drying off in the sun, and slipping into an easy rhythm of doing nothing much at all. Everyone seems to have settled into their own pace, the hours stretching out in that perfect, unhurried way.
Night-time meals are a slow, communal affair. There’s something about cooking as a group that feels different. We chop, we pour wine, and we always seem to be laughing at some half-told story, a running joke from earlier in the trip, or just the kind of ridiculous conversation that happens when you’re surrounded by close family and friends, with no one else around to hear it. Dinner stretches out, conversations meander and another bottle of wine is opened.
Why The Murray River?
While researching the best places in Australia for a houseboat holiday, we found the Murray River is hard to beat. Stretching across three states, it’s one of the longest navigable waterways in the world. The landscape shifts constantly—one minute you’re floating past ochre cliffs, the next, towering river red gums line the banks, their reflections stretching across the water.
For those who love spotting wildlife, the river doesn’t disappoint. Eagles soar overhead, cormorants dry their wings on fallen logs, and brightly coloured kingfishers dart between the trees. The variety is staggering, with more than 200 species recorded along the Murray. We even spot wild goats wandering down to the water’s edge for a drink.
One of my favourite things about travelling this way—and in this particular spot—is that you’re never competing for space. There’s no scrambling to claim the best campsite before the crowds roll in, no lining up behind a hundred other travellers for a sunset view. Out here, you just pull up wherever feels right, tie off the ropes, and it’s yours—no neighbours, no noise, just the river and the open sky.
The Art of Doing Nothing
I thought 10 days on a boat might feel too long. What if I got bored? What if I missed having things to do? But as it turns out, doing nothing takes up a lot of time.
Some nights, we sit around playing cards, glasses of wine in hand. No phones, no distractions, just conversation and laughter that rolls across the deck and into the night air. Another night, we play songs from old movies, and everyone has to guess the film. Before long, we’re up dancing, replicating the group dance scene from Dirty Dancing or dancing around the table like Nicole Kidman and Sandra Bullock in Practical Magic. It feels like being kids again, where the simplest games could last for hours, and no one was ever in a rush to call it a night.
By the end of the trip, I realise this isn’t just about slowing down—it’s about stepping into a different rhythm entirely. Without schedules or obligations, time doesn’t just pass, it expands. There’s no urgency to squeeze everything in, no guilt over doing nothing. The days unfold at their own pace, stretching lazily like the river itself.
Maybe that’s the real luxury of a houseboat holiday. Not just the space, the scenery, or the indulgence of an afternoon nap in the sun—but the rare gift of unstructured time. The chance to wake up with no plans, to move only when you feel like it, to let the world drift by, and be perfectly content right where you are.
Planning Your Own Murray River Houseboat Holiday
Where to hire a houseboat: The best Murray River houseboat hubs are Mildura and Echuca in Victoria, and Renmark, South Australia, with companies like All Seasons Houseboats offering everything from cosy two-berth boats to full-blown floating retreats.
Best time to go? Spring and autumn bring perfect temperatures, but summer is best for swimming.
No boating experience? No worries. Houseboats come with a full briefing, and the Murray is easy to navigate.
How long should you go for? A weekend gives you a taste, but a full week or more lets you sink into the slower pace.
Krista and her family travelled at their own expense.
