As a Whitsundays local, photographer James Vodicka is no stranger to sailing but while bareboat sailing K’gari (formerly Fraser Island), his eyes were opened to a truly private island escape. Over five days, with no boat licence and only the wind in his charter yacht’s sails, he discovered towering coloured sand dunes, breaching whales, swirling white sand inlets, and beaches shared by only a handful of other intrepid sailors.
Scroll to see how you can do it too.
K’gari, formerly dubbed Fraser Island by colonists but officially changed to its millennia-old Traditional name meaning ‘paradise’ in 2023, in consultation with the Butchulla People, is the largest sand island in the world. It’s popularly known as one of Australia’s greatest 4WD destinations – but another way to explore it is offshore by yacht.
Setting sail from Hervey Bay, the sheltered bays and pristine beaches of the island’s remote west coast are protected by the island from ocean swells, making the calm, clear waters perfect for those new to boat life.
You won’t need a boat licence – or even any boating experience – to be able to charter your own yacht here. The charter companies provide detailed briefings on how to sail, where to anchor and how to understand weather conditions and tides. Then, it’s time to set off.
The salty breeze fills the sails, and the rolling bow waves invite pods of dolphins in for a surf. Following the channel markers through the sandbars, the Great Sandy Straits Marina soon disappears out of sight and the iconic white beaches and sand dunes of K’gari welcome you for a week of island adventures, swimming and, in winter, whale spotting.
With Hervey Bay the whale watching capital of the world, up close sightings of humpback whales are almost guaranteed between August and October. The warm sheltered waters of the bay provide the perfect haven for mothers and their calves to rest during their annual migration.
Unlike the often-crowded eastern side of K’gari, the west coast is more difficult to reach by 4WD, and many parts of the coastline are not accessible by car at all. We spotted just a handful of car campers and a dozen other sailing boats throughout our entire trip – a truly private island escape. Checking in twice a day on the radio could well be the only contact you’ll have with the outside world until your reluctant return to the mainland.
REST
We sailed on a Sweet Escape Charters yacht – a locally owned charter company in Hervey Bay. Most of their sailing catamarans have four spacious double cabins, several bathrooms and a fully-equipped kitchen to comfortably fit groups of 8–12 guests.
DISCOVER
Wathumba Creek is known as the Hill Inlet of the Fraser Coast, and is one of the favoured anchorages for sailors exploring the island’s west coast due to its crystal-clear water, white sandy beach and secluded location. In winter, it’s common for sailors to see humpback whales breaching in the sheltered waters around the anchorage.
The Route
5 DAYS/105KM/EASY–MODERATE
DAY 1
Urangan to Moon Point
(via Pelican Bank)
1.5 HR /13 KM
After a crash course in boat basics, you’ll be off on your own through the channel markers and towards Pelican Bank. A picturesque sandbank just outside Urangan marina, this is your first opportunity to anchor on your own, finding a spot on the shallow north-east side of the bank among the other boats visiting for the day. Enjoy lunch onboard and a swim before pulling up anchor to motor to the shores of K’gari.
Moon Point is a quiet anchorage protected from north-east winds, and here you can enjoy sunset and drinks before settling in for your first night onboard. As you’ll still have phone and internet reception here, it’s a comfortable spot for first-time charterers to spend their first night.
DAY 2
Moon Point to Wathumba Creek
4H R/40KM
Travelling up K’gari’s west coast for several hours today, you’ll have the opportunity to see the changing landscape as you head further north, from towering coloured sand dunes to the crystal-clear waters of Wathumba Creek – nicknamed ‘Hill Inlet of the Fraser Coast’. On the way, look out for breaching whales. During the months of August, September and October, this stretch of water is busy with migrating humpbacks, and you’ll almost be guaranteed multiple sightings as you journey north. Arrive at Wathumba Creek in time for an afternoon swim, and sunset drinks on the deck.
DAY 3
Wathumba Creek
0H R/0KM
Take the morning easy, and spend the day exploring Wathumba Creek in the tender. Load an esky with snacks and drinks, and spend a few hours swimming in the shallows and relaxing on the sand in complete seclusion. This area of the island is difficult for 4WD campers to access, so you’ll most likely be sharing the waterways and beaches with just a few other sailors and the occasional dingo. The hues of the water changes as the tide rises and falls, from deep azure in the channels to sparkling sandy white in the clear shallows. Spend the afternoon stand-up paddleboarding from the boat, or napping on the catamaran’s front netting, before a slow dinner as the sun sets and the skies open to a night full of stars.
DAY 4
Wathumba Creek to Arch Cliffs
2H R/10KM
Pulling up anchor early, you’ll arrive at the impressive Arch Cliffs before mid-morning, with almost a full day to explore. There are spots of coffee rock here, the best underwater environment along this coastline to snorkel or spearfish, or collect pipis from the sea floor. Close to several freshwater creeks, there are hidden spots to explore up and down the coastline, and pristine creeks for swimming or a bushwalk. Pack a picnic and tender into the beach for sunset under the dunes, marvelling at their changing colours as the sun’s glow illuminates their sandy cliffs. This anchorage is a hotspot for whales – we saw a mother and calf putting on a show of breaching towards the horizon, their splashes illuminated by the setting sun. Some curious calves have even been spotted by other sailors swimming right underneath their boats here.
DAY 5
Arch Cliffs to Urangan
3.5 HR /42 KM
Wake up in paradise on your last morning and squeeze in one final swim before breakfast and coffee on the sun-filled deck. Picking up anchor, it’s just a few hours back to Urangan, with the opportunity to hug the coast and stop to re-explore any little spots you’ve loved along the way. Enjoy a last-minute stop at Pelican Bank, or perhaps a show from a pod of playful humpbacks. The morning eventually ends and time comes to return to Urangan Harbour, and back to reality on the mainland.
This is an edited extract from Undiscovered Queensland by James Vodicka published by Hardie Grant Explore. Buy your copy here.
