Artist Ingrid Daniell and her husband Clifton first fell in love with East Coast Tasmania back in 2003 during their first family road trip, three months after their twin sons (Flynn and Archer) were born.
When they then clapped eyes on what would become their iconic shack, Whale Song, Ingrid says “it was as if I were a living in a childhood dream.”
Photo: Marnie Hawson
“We have always loved Falmouth. It’s a tiny quiet hamlet of original beach shacks and an eclectic mix of bespoke beach houses; it is three streets deep and five streets long, no shops. The beautiful tidal lagoon that is crystal-clear blue at high tide, runs deep into the Henderson Lagoon wetlands and out into the vast stretch of surf beach that stretches into the horizon of the Peron Dunes. It is protected by the rocky headland and shell drifts that wrap around to the south.
“Whale Song sits on the edge of the Tasman Sea overlooking the most beautiful reef, fringed with a shelly beach and embraced by a tea tree grove that leads you to the beach. There is a special energy that lives in the layers that make up Whale Song, so much so when we laid eyes on the shack I got goose bumps and I felt in my bones this was the place that lived in my dreams.
“I love the constant soundtrack of the ocean that drifts through your soul in every moment. I love the calm and warmth that settles when you’re curled up by the fire, watching the ocean, the sky, the moon, the sun.
“I feel like here on the East Coast of Tasmania, the sky, the sunrise, moonrise and ever-present Tasman Sea draw you into their embrace. The elements here are close, and intimate. I never lose that sense of being on the edge of the world.”
This is Ingrid’s East Coast Tasmania Guide.
Swims, Scamander by @foodobiter
Best East Coast Tasmania Coffee
We recommend Swims in Scamander, the cutest little shipping container coffee hut just 10 minutes down the road. They make great coffee, delicious toasties and treats.
If you’re spending time in Bicheno we love Little Bay Patisserie – seriously the BEST coffee and the most delicious home-baked pastries and cakes. Be sure to get there before lunch time to avoid disappointment.
St Helens has a few options we highly recommend too, like Life Buoy Cafe.
The other option is The East Coast Village Providore Cafe. As well as great coffee, their menu is delicious and ever changing. While there you can stock up on the best local supplies for your cooking feast back at the shack.
Best East Coast Tasmania produce
Places we love to stop along the way to Whale Song to gather and fossick:
St Helens Market is on weekly every Saturday 8am-1pm. My favourite is the fresh boxes of Four Mile Mushrooms along with delicious fresh greens, biscuits, cakes and preserves, from local growers and makers around the area.
East Coast Village Providore – not only an incredible butcher with fresh local meat and house made gluten-free sausages, they have a wonderful selection of soups, casserole, quiche or pies perfect for that first night. To make life easy they can prepare cheese platter using fresh local produce and breakfast packs for those wanting a little bit more upon arrival. Book ahead.
Cerise Brook Orchard is a family favourite, open over summer only and the best place to buy fresh cherries, peaches, plums and blueberries! They make a great coffee and the most delicious cakes plump with their fresh fruit. There is also a beautiful 9 hole golf course to enjoy around their property.
If you are travelling through or spending time in Launceston on a Saturday, the Harvest Market is a must to enjoy the atmosphere, grab breakfast or lunch and, gather the very best of the regions produce.
Seafood Bicheno serve seriously the best lobster roll in town, incredible fish n chips, and the best place to pick up fresh crayfish, locally caught fish and oysters. We love to enjoy fish n chips overlooking the gulch.
Lease 65 Oysters bought directly from the farm on the Binalong Bay Road, are delicious and creamy oysters and deserve to be enjoyed back at Whale Song with a fine local Sparkling.
Go to Bay Of Fires Lobster for premium Southern Rock Lobster straight off the boat and locally caught seafood. The Rainbirds have been fishing Tasmania’s pristine waters for over 50 years –this is as local as you can get! Check their Facebook page for opening hours.
A trip along the East Coast drive to Whale Song is not complete without stopping in at the Gala Estate cellar door. One of our favourite wines with the most gorgeous cellar door. Spring Vale winery is also beautiful and great for lunch. They also distill the most delicious Splendid Gin.
Whisky lovers take note: Waubs Harbour Distillery is a unique tasting experience set on the edge of the Gulch in Bicheno, showcasing their award-winning maritime whisky. If possible, time it to enjoy a dinner or lunch at The Lobster Shack or take home your fresh bounty to enjoy back at the shack. Highly recommend!
Best East Coast Tasmania restaurants
We highly recommend booking in to dine on the edge of the Tasman Sea right here at Whale Song. Chris Lucas from What Grows effortlessly and discretely prepares a restaurant-quality meal you will savour.
Best way to enjoy the sunset in Falmouth
Watching the ocean and the sky shift as the sun sets by the outdoor fire pit at Whale Song is the coolest spot to be when you are in Falmouth. Occasionally we might wander down the path to the shelly beach out the front and toast the magic of the evening there… then wander back to the fireside watching the moon rise out of the ocean and the sky shift from dusty pink to soft grey into night.
Best ways to go slow on East Coast Tasmania
FALMOUTH
Take the hidden path at the south end of the garden at Whale Song down to the shelly ‘beach’ on the reef out the front. You can then walk the headland track around to the Falmouth surf beach and Henderson Lagoon. As you walk along the headland there is a blowhole that’s works on a decent swell, about half way along the track as you walk north. You’ll find the most incredible driftwood forts dotted around the sand dunes on the north side of the lagoon – you may need to paddle / wade across depending on the tide.
SCAMANDER
The Winfred Curtis Reserve is a beautiful bush walk located on the Tasman Hwy as you approach Scamander. The walk takes you through the natural endemic bush and wetlands at the end of the Falmouth lagoon system out to the wild edge of the coast between Falmouth and Scamander. If you feel up to it you can walk back to Falmouth along the beach at low tide.
larapuna / BAY OF FIRES
Our favourite beach is Sloop Reef (when the wind is blowing from the south). There’s also a lovely walk through the shea oaks to the edge of the rocky headland with a beautiful view out towards sloop reef. There is the iconic Binalong Bay of course but we tend to enjoy the beaches off The Gardens Road before you enter the town. (Cosy Corner and Jeanneret Beach)
PERON DUNES
Follow St. Helens Point Road out towards Akaroa. The actual Dune system is so beautiful – a lunar landscape which we used to take the kids sliding down on old boogie boards or cardboard. The beaches to enjoy here are Maurouard Beach (Peron Dunes beach) and Beerbarrel Beach. It’s a bit vaguely signposted but just follow the tracks and you’ll find them. These are both beautiful beaches that are a great option on a north wind. Take a picnic lunch and water, you’ll want to relax and enjoy time here.
BLUE TIER
If you are looking for an easy but magical experience in the middle of the Blue Tier Forest, the Mt Poimena Car Park is the base for some beautiful short walks. The Goblin Forest Walk is divine and Moon Valley Circuit takes you up through a grassy boulder rise to (on a clear day) look out across the Blue Tier.
DERBY / THE FLOATING SAUNA
Derby is host to the incredible Floating Sauna a truly unique experience not to be missed – be sure to book your experience in advance. It is worth trying to coordinate this experience either on your way to Whale Song perhaps with a one night stay in Derby or on your way home.
ST PATRICKS HEAD
You may have seen the almost perfect symmetry of St Patricks Head as you drive through the Fingal Valley towards the east coast of Tasmania. Its pointed triangular peak casts a long shadow towards the sea at sunset and almost touches the southern edge of Ben Lomond National Park at sunrise. This is where we first noticed St Patricks Head and knew we had to climb the bouldered peak to witness the incomparable views of East Coast Tasmania. We have now completed the short three-kilometre hike on multiple occasions, often for a sunrise photography mission close to home, and it never disappoints.
A small gate leading to a paddock indicates the unlikely beginning of the St Patricks Head Hike. Make sure to close ‘Bob’s Gate’ behind you as you follow the skinny dirt track northeast towards the forest’s edge. Look out for a giant tree halfway along the meadow that has its entire insides hollowed out, you can literally stand tall inside the ancient trunk!
FREYCINET
Needing no introduction, this is a place we often visit when we’re staying at Whale Song. The Cape Tourville track is short and easy with magnificent views but of course the Wineglass Bay lookout walk is a must.
Photo: Natasha Mulhall
Where to stay on East Coast Tasmania
Of course Whale Song is the best place to experience the magic of the East Coast… yes we are biased! However we have some other hidden gems that offer very special experiences on the East Coast.
Slow River which is situated on the Scamander River is a beautiful place to stay.
SwanSong is another special property that is situated on the Binalong Bay road overlooking Gorges Bay, and was designed with environmental/sustainable principals.
Feature image by Marnie Hawson
